Food Editor Caitlin Dickinson visited Cappadocia in the Jewellery Quarter, to try some Turkish cuisine for Valentine’s Day.Written by Caitlin Dickinson on 14th March 2018
Eat With a Relish that Needs No Sauce
Tim Abington laments how can food lose its essence to calorie counting and nutritional statistics, in opposition to Public Health England’s new guidelines
Succulent are the plump potato dumplings, emulsified in a rich, garlicky, buttery sauce lifted by parmesan, smothered in a warm panini crust. Sharp is the peppery skin of the brisket; the richness of the deep brown gravy; the collective enjoyment of the atmospheric throb of the kitchen. Sombre, the smell of lukewarm sandwiches, snatched from the supermarket aisle closest to the exit, eaten hurriedly amidst the clattering of keyboards and the silence of the lonesome individual.
“our food is to now satisfy only the numerical figures and nutritional agreements of state and industry
In the latest of a series of publications, Public Health England has announced further measures to reduce calorie consumption in the continued march on the obesity crisis. In the triad of resolutions, the institution is to establish quantitative targets for the calorie consumption of adults and children whilst encouraging the industry to reduce calories by twenty per cent.
“Ensuring that the output of cooking is suited to a graph and stripping it of all notions of pleasure is not means by which to re-establish the passion for quality food
If, as a society, our meals are dictated by grams of protein and vitamin percentiles then we have lost all notions of what it is to eat. The pleasure of food, evocative mouthfuls of fulfillment, the company kept whilst breaking bread amidst family and friends. All of this is to be burnt before the altar of statistics.
“All of this is to be burnt before the altar of statistics.
Cholesterol, fats, and carbohydrates have all previously been targeted, before a change in times disproved the factual inaccuracies that bred them. Meals have become cold as lobbyists seek to banish entire cuisines and rid food of all fulfilment.
“Do not attempt to reduce food to the depressive state where one spends more time antagonising over the nutritional value of a meal then eating it
Do not attempt to reduce food to the depressive state where one spends more time antagonising over the nutritional value of a meal then eating it. Instead, to paraphrase Bewick, eat it with a relish that needs no sauce.