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London Fashion Week Round-Up
Life&Style Editor Tara Kergon talks us through the stand-out looks from London Fashion Week
It’s London, baby! The second stop on the whirlwind tour that is fashion month, the city of Brit-girl style and home to the punk this season added its edge to neo-minimalism (see Molly Goddard’s micro bralet and puffball skirt pairings), while Christopher Kane’s dishabille collection went some way to answering how we dress sexy in a world where #TimesUp. In a similar vein to New York, some outrageous excess found its home: Erdem featured top-to-toe floral brocade, and Ashish provided light (or heavy) relief with rainbow glitter and punny sweatshirts. And a personal highlight was when fashion royalty met British royalty, in a collision of icons Queen Elizabeth, seated next to Anna Wintour, stole the show by attending Richard Quinn’s collection to present him with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design - which surely marks him as one to watch. Choosing the best collections is always a challenge, but here are the stand-out scenes from LFW AW18.
Christopher Bailey’s last hurrah as creative director perfectly captured the current zeitgeist of relaxed-yet-glamorous streetwear, while being more than a little bit retro. His swan-song collection featured 1980s-inspired printed windbreakers, full skirts, brocade, and checked trousers, speaking not only to the brand but his time as creative director. It was a rainbow delight, as the hue updated the classic Burberry check to create something more youthful, daring, and wearable. And frankly, the brightly-coloured rainbow tweed is the fashionista’s answer to Pride dressing – loud, proud, and yet instantly chic.
Never one to shy away from turning heads, Ashish consistently shows fun, fabulous fashion and AW18 was no exception. Although not necessarily easy for every day wear, the standout rainbow-fringed and glitter-bedazzled jumpsuit was creative, kitsch, and the perfect brightener for any mood. The rest of the collection featured an almost blinding array of rainbow stripes, glitter fringe, and sweatshirts playing with the credit card logos (Mastercard becomes masturbate, and we now pay with American Excess).
Perfectly nailing fashion’s current predilection for heritage, Simone Rocha gave centre stage to romantic, Victoriana-inspired looks. The pretty, botanical tapestry jacquard fabrics were reminiscent of landscape paintings, while delicate ruffles and bows topped off slightly undone dresses. Without being too prim and proper, sheer fabrics layered over jacquard and slipped from shoulders to create something dishevelled and yet elegant, while tartan – both quintessentially British and edgily punk, provided the perfect contrast.
Daytime dressing was clearly a focus at Roksanda, with the camel coat continuing as a staple piece (opening the show, no less) and an emphasis on tailored suits in light shades of blue and tan edged with bright red. Block colours were once again the name of the game, but the textural mix of sleek silks and chunkier knits kept it fresh – and an oversized blanket-style cover-up is definitely one for the wish list. And eveningwear still had its expected place in the collection, with smooth satin dresses appearing in long, languid silhouettes, or with an elegantly structured ruffle.
The print-loving Katrantzou girl has grown up and put away her toys. Moving away from the lego-and-Disney-inspired pieces of last season to take inspiration from the Bauhaus form and Victorian ornamentation, this collection was filled with graphic print (a Katrantzou staple) but this time took on a collaged air. Almost cut-and-pasted words appeared across mis-mashed print and block colours, with black framing. Bold printed suits were effortlessly sleek, and the peplum was revived in pastel shades, stiffly shaped as a Victorian lampshade.