Milan Fashion Week Roundup | Redbrick | University of Birmingham

Milan Fashion Week Roundup

Life and Style Editor Tara Kergon summarises the up-and-coming trends of Milan Fashion Week

There’s something about Italian style that oozes classic, easy, effortless glamour, but the AW18 collections saw it in excess. Whether fashion is your religion (as Dolce & Gabbana surely believed) or you’re getting your freak on a la Gucci, Milan’s offerings proved once again that it’s time to go all out, have fun with your fashion and be creative with your style. And don’t be afraid to mix things up: take heavy textures and pair them with something barely-there, mix your glam with your punk, and take something classic (such as the heritage tweed) and re-imagine it.


Welcome to the clinic: Gucci’s models walked around an ambiguous, medicinal-green operating theatre, with some even carrying lifelike models of their own heads. The entire aesthetic was a transformational one, a modern Doctor Frankenstein vibe that’s less surgical and more sartorial, with classically Gucci outfits covered in clear chrysalises of nude tulle, ready to be shed. And as for the clothes? Take tartan checks on trousers or midi skirts and pair them with oversized sweatshirts; contrast a knit winter hat with a glittering asymmetrical evening dress; get creative with layering striped shirts, top-to-toe coats, lace, and socks – and keep wearing your geek glasses.


While D&G sometimes seems like an all-too-easy recreation and adaptation of season’s past – there’s been a focus on headwear, Renaissance reimaginings, and over-the-top gold accessories for quite some time now – this season merits a bit more attention. In t-shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘fashion sinner’ and ‘fashion devotion’, not only is fashion a religion for AW18, but daywear saw itself incorporated into luxe ensembles. The key is creating contrast between heavy brocade suiting, glittering trousers with sporty stripes, and matching simple tees with stiff, structured skirts decorated with cartoon-style cupids.


Never one to create a look that melts into the background, Versace’s latest collection mixed classic silhouettes and aristocratic glamour with a playful punk attitude. Figure-hugging gowns with bardot necklines were cinched at the waist to create elegant silhouettes, but appeared over high-necked, long-sleeved tops – but the main event was the colour clash and liberal use of heritage tartan. Artsy, rainbow hues appeared alongside scarf-print lilacs, while Scottish clan tartans covered everything from classic trousers to kilts (in a nod to Westwood). And all was finished off with overcoats in cosy camel or burgundy vinyl, thick scarves, and a classic Argyle sock.


The Moschino aesthetic was a little less pure-fun, anti-fashion and a little more playful – think rock’n’roll Jackie Kennedy and you’ve got the look. Classic skirt suits and mini-dresses were updated with bold hues (tomato-red, mint green, or mustard), leather jackets, and pop-art reinterpretations of packaging (from cereal boxes to Diazepam) -  but it was all still topped off with a pill-box hat over hair that even a snowstorm couldn’t budge from its careful coif. First Lady glamour has officially become young, 21st century, and desirable.


Once again, the preoccupation with women’s rights and the potentials for dressing sexy in the current climate led to a collection effortlessly mixing daywear and nightwear. Prada took workwear silhouettes, oversized coats in classically unsexy colours and heavy fabrics, and added in some sleek silk, single layers of sheer mesh, and bright-coloured high heels to create something nouveau chic and fierce. A highlight of mine was F1-style sportswear’s luxurious turn as clean, classic bags and simple, elastic-laced heels in black and white were eponymously emblazoned – proving there’s no shame in flaunting your labels – then paired with sporty socks and sheer-to-the-extreme dresses in acidic green or candy pink.


8th March 2018 at 9:00 am

Images from

Christopher Macsurak