New York Fashion Week Round-Up | Redbrick | University of Birmingham

New York Fashion Week Round-Up

Life&Style Editor Tara Kergon's summarises some of her favourite looks from New York Fashion Week

New York, New York, so good it kicks off the ‘official’ fashion month every season – and this year the collections offered an eclectic and varied range of inspirations, and absolutely nothing done half-heartedly. From Jeremy Scott’s neon-and-pastel wigs cut in full-fringed bobs to Philipp Plein’s space-age Barbarella reincarnations (complete with robot), excess ruled the runways and it seems AW18 is the season to go big or go home. Metallics lived to gleam another day (see Calvin Klein’s top-to-toe shine), while sheer fabrics (especially in beautiful gowns a la Jason Wu) continued to tempt, and a big vibe is a 1980s renaissance best embodied at Tom Ford. Fashion is continuing with its eclecticism this season, mixing textures, clashing colours and playing with shapes. It’s time to have fun with our wardrobes (some fun we all sorely need) and escape into something playful yet polished – and here are the best collections from New York Fashion Week to show us how.


Wang does edgy glamour perfectly, and this season’s black-and-silver incarnations were simultaneously sleek and chic – and all emblazoned eponymously. The aesthetic is authoritarian and Amazonian, yet undeniably glamorous thanks to mink trims and patent leather, and the ultimate office-to-out-for-the-night outfit. Both comfortable-looking enough to wear on the daily and giving off enough attitude to carry you through until dawn, take inspiration from luxe leather in all-black and pair it with some space-age shining silver accessories.


It’s not an exaggeration to call Oscar the king of the gown, and the designers carrying his torch are doing it beautifully. This season saw full-skirted pouffe and parachute skirts topped with black bodices, appliquéd floral motifs across bold and bright block colours (an almost-painful pink, a yellow-orange sunshine hue) in black or white, and skirt suits in quilted velvet; something Vogue called ‘Tudor rose bling’. It’s all-American meets Renaissance, and entirely fabulous.


Gurung, feminist and activist before it was cool, ended his show with models hand-in-hand, gliding over mandalas and holding white flowers in a show of solidarity so needed in a divided world. And his mission was to reclaim pink as not merely feminine but feminist, with shades of cerise, bubblegum and red walking the catwalk in fluid dresses, midi hemlines, and long belted scarves. A little mashed-up yet magical, the beautiful collection speaks of strength – who said we have to reject looking good in order to be good people?


Think oversized coats in primary block colours, with a matching scarf, of course, and you’ve hit upon the most striking part of Jacobs’ collection. Shapes were exaggerated, creating polygonal silhouettes of indeterminate size, all matched with luxe leather midi skirts and boots. The ensembles were then topped off with a wide-brim planter hat (probably one for the brave among us). The simplicity of the colours seems like a new minimalism, given to experimental lines and not confined by the monochrome colour palette. I’m not wishing away the summer, but I can’t wait to wrap up warm and look good doing it.


I’ve often thought of it as the era that fashion forgot (shoulder pads, neon, and perms? Ugh.), but Ford’s reinvention of the 80s aesthetic has got me convinced. The West Coast glamour of sequinned jumpers and long-length fur-trim leopard-print coats probably shouldn’t work, but somehow it does. And I may be about to break a cardinal rule and allow leggings as trousers – but only if they’re in his slick black or rose-gold high-shine hues or some jazzy zebra print. Long live the (new) 1980s.


20th February 2018 at 9:00 am

Images from

Peter Duhon