Final year reading week is no joke: a juggling act of seminar catch-ups, dissertation reading, essay drafts, and job applications. Thus, naturally, I decided to jump ship, and within a Skyscanner search and a text to my friend, I was on my way to Dublin. 

However, my trip was not rooted in the traditional craic. As a non-drinker Muslim (and Dublin in my head being almost cartoonishly associated with alcohol) meant it was never at the top of my list. However, a dear friend from my year abroad studies there, so the mix of wanting to see her, and a stubborn avoidance of LinkedIn won, taking me on a trip that pleasantly surprised me with its history, stunning open spaces, and excellent bakeries. 

Stepping onto Trinity College’s campus, my first thought was that I really should have watched Normal People in preparation. The campus is breathtaking, and while my tour guide was in class, I spent time absorbing the grand, yet not intimidating, beauty. November seemed to have blessed the campus with a cinematic quality, as the autumn leaves played along the cobblestones, and the muted light breathed life into the stony buildings, while the Campanile rose calmly above. The Museum Building was particularly striking- all marble staircases and high arches. For those looking for spots to just wander and read, Trinity’s open campus was perfect.

This quiet, reflective aspect continued with St Patrick’s Cathedral, which boasts a picturesque garden complete with fountains and bird baths, lying at the feet of the towering gothic spires. The National Gallery of Ireland was another charming highlight, where you can drift from one gallery to the next completely at your own pace, from Irish and other European works and Renaissance to more modern pieces. 

On the livelier sides lay the fruits of the festive season. Dublin was fully dressed for Christmas upon my arrival, with the famous Temple Bar draped with greenery and illuminated by streaming fairy lights. Similarly, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre was equally iridescent, the decorations, lights, and glass complimenting the art deco style, reminiscent of a more nostalgic festive image, making for quite the nice central Dublin detour.

Now onto the real reason I fell in love with Dublin: the bakeries. The responses I gave to questions regarding how I found the city can only be categorised as odes to the beauteous pastry scene. The Liberties was full of gems with many small, independent bakeries at the forefront, like Catherine’s on Meath Street, which was a trove of fresh choux, and other cream pastries; we left with eclairs roughly the size of a forearm, bursting with delectably rich cream. Then there is the focaccia. If Birmingham is experiencing a pistachio takeover, Dublin is in the clutches of a focaccia one- and I completely support it. Manning’s do a range of focaccia sandwiches, while Fallon and Byrne offer a variety of toppings nestled into the trademark dimples, making the slightly elevated price totally justified. For Non-Drinkers, food naturally becomes a bigger part of how you experience a city, and Dublin rose to this occasion. 

This continued as we ventured into North Dublin, home to a host of immigrant communities, resulting in a diverse range of restaurants, cafes, and even more bakeries. As a Muslim traveller, and someone used to seeking diverse spaces in different cities, the Brazilian bakeries and Turkish grocers that dotted Capel Street, offered a sense of everyday life that balanced the more touristic areas.

Things to do past 7pm were more challenging. While I visited a few of the famous pubs such as O’Neils – simply to absorb the atmosphere – that atmosphere has a limit generally determined by how quickly you finish a soft drink. One night, quite aimlessly, we stumbled across a sign for live jazz, pointing to the basement of a pub, where on a whim we ended up spending the evening enjoying velvety Classical, Italian and Bossa Nova performances. Dublin nightlife is also incomplete without a mention of the infamous “Spice Bag” from Xian – chicken and chips tossed in a dry rub and eaten out of a bag on the way home – a stunning late-night staple. 

Overall, Dublin was a highly unexpected but thoroughly enjoyable destination and taught me that sometimes the most underrated cities can end up being exactly what you need. Indeed, once you step away from the more “classic” experiences, and just amble and wander, you can discover a version of a city that feels entirely your own.

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