Travel Editor, Caitlin McGraw, visits the UK City of Culture 2025, discovering Bradford’s artistic history and delicious curries
Rather than going home for reading week, I explored the recently crowned ‘UK City of Culture 2025’, Bradford, in West Yorkshire. After a four-hour coach journey from Birmingham (a quicker train can also be taken), I arrived in darkness. So it was a pleasant surprise to see the city’s skyline from my hotel room the next morning, spotting a mix of gothic, brutalist and contemporary architecture.
Our first day required us to make our way to Forster Square train station; whilst walking, we were greeted by the looming City Hall, which can be spotted from many of the city centre’s side streets with its gothic spires and miniscule windows. Ten minutes later, the train arrived in Saltaire, a village originally built to house the workers of a large textile mill dominating the area (similar to Bourneville, minus the chocolate). Now converted into shops and an arts centre, Salts Mill is the perfect place to spend a relaxing Saturday afternoon, strolling through the rooms where large machinery once stood, now replaced by world-famous paintings, arts supplies, antiques, homeware and restaurants. The mill and surrounding village is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
“Now converted into shops and an arts centre, Salts Mill is the perfect place to spend a relaxing Saturday afternoon, strolling through the rooms where large machinery once stood, now replaced by world-famous paintings, arts supplies, antiques, homeware and restaurants
The influence of the Bradford College of Art is evident throughout the mill, with one of the city’s most famous faces, David Hockney, housing his work here in the 1853 Gallery. Hockney’s famous vibrant colours adorn portraits of close friends and his well-known Swimming Pool prints. A landscape painted by the artist of the village hangs in the entrance, with shades of purple and gold offering an abstract take on the surrounding area. Lesser-known work in the form of theatre posters and set design props can also be discovered. But most impressive was seeing the innovative ways Hockney uses technology to produce art. Two expansive artworks run parallel down the ground-floor room, created in the 1980s by a fax machine sending prints between California and Bradford. And Hockney’s latest works, still life drawings of flowers drawn on an iPad, line the top floor of the mill- the only place outside of London to see these contemporary pieces.
“Two expansive artworks run parallel down the ground-floor room, created in the 1980s by a fax machine sending prints between California and Bradford
I also learnt about another Bradford College of Art alumnus, Ian Beesley, whose photographs form an exhibition on the mill’s third floor. Through black and white photo strips, themes of masculinity and deindustrialisation in the nearby city are explored and explained on handwritten notes by the artist. The stories behind each photo were incredibly impactful. After perusing the mill top to bottom, we made our way into Saltaire village (named after the factory owner Titus Salt and the river Aire running through the village), where we bought lunch from the local bakery which had a queue out of the door (understandably). The rest of the day consisted of admiring the domed-rooved Italianate church, alpaca statues in the park, and strolling down the Leeds-Liverpool canal lined with colourful barges and questionable sculptures.
Upon return to Bradford, we found dinner at one of the many renowned curry houses. ‘International Restaurant’ is a bustling establishment serving mouthwatering Kashmiri curries with all of the classic sides like poppadoms and naan, with friendly service to match. We walked off the meal past the Alhambra Theatre which was adorned with fairy lights, like much of the city square also covered in banners celebrating the city’s recent accomplishment.
Bradford is home to both the recently reopened Science and Media Museum, and Cartwright Hall located in the stately Lister Park; more Hockney works can be found in both. But on our second full day, we opted to take a quick train to neighbouring Leeds to browse the shopping arcades and explore the Miffy 70th Birthday exhibition at the City Museum. But we also had time to wander round Bradford some more, peeking inside the sprawling cathedral, learning about local immigration in Little Germany, and gawking at the intricate ceiling in the Wool Exchange (which traditionally was spun in the Saltaire Mill and was the key export from the area) which now houses a particularly grand Waterstones book shop.
“On our second full day, we opted to take a quick train to neighbouring Leeds to browse the shopping arcades and explore the Miffy 70th Birthday exhibition at the City Museum
Between the world-famous artists, delicious cuisine and fascinating local history, I can see why Bradford is being rewarded for its diverse and intriguing culture. Make sure to plan a visit to this charming Yorkshire city soon!
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