Travel Writer Thisbe Titley talks of her short time in Budapest, finding it to offer an immersive cultural and culinary experience

Written by thisbe titley
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Images by Thisbe Titley

Over Easter I spent a long weekend in Budapest with my boyfriend. We stayed with some friends in their apartment situated in central Budapest, a five minute walk away from St Stephen’s Basilica.  

Day 1 

After arriving at the airport, we got the bus into the city center. This took around 45 minutes and cost only 5 euros. Our first stop was St Stephen’s Basilica. This church, the largest in Budapest, is incredibly beautiful and full of impressive works of art and statues created by Hungarian artists. St Stephen’s Square offers a multitude of restaurants and cafes to sit in and appreciate the Basilica, although be aware that these are pretty pricey. Next up on our list to see was Budapest Central Market, the largest in Budapest. Within the 19th century Great Market Hall where this market is held, there are a huge variety of stalls to explore. From traditional Hungarian delicacies to souvenirs and clothes, you really can’t get bored here.  

St Stephen’s Square offers a multitude of restaurants and cafes to sit in and appreciate the Basilica

For most of the day we had been walking around, so with tired legs we took the tram back to the apartment. When using the trams, you have to be sure to get your ticket from a ticket machine before you travel, and then get it validated by punching a hole in it using a different machine. This system is quite confusing at first, but worth getting used to as the trams are a great way to get around the city. Once back, we searched for some dinner. One of the things I loved about the city was the many different cuisines you can try. In the end, we settled on Greek food. After dinner that evening we headed for a tour of the river Danube, the river that splits Budapest into ‘Buda’ and ‘Pest’. We chose a relatively inexpensive option that included optional audio commentary and a drink. The cityscape passing us by on either side was magically illuminated by the setting sun. We all concluded that this river tour is an unbeatable way to see Budapest from a different perspective.  

The cityscape passing us by on either side was magically illuminated by the setting sun

Day 2 

To begin our next day, we went to see one of the attractions Budapest is most famous for: its thermal baths. These exist since Budapest is located on a geological fault line. This causes more than 100 thermal springs to jet up, releasing warm mineral rich water, hence the creation of the many thermal baths in the city. We first visited the Szechenyi baths, the largest spa complex in Europe. There is a mix of outdoor and indoor pools here, which range from 18-40 degrees celsius. The coldest baths were definitely a shock to the senses, and I have to admit I didn’t spend much time in them! While these baths were impressive to see, we found it really busy here. I preferred our next stop, the Rudas baths. Unbelievably, Rudas has been operating since the 16th century. While this too offers a range of baths at different temperatures, its best attraction is its rooftop hot tub which provides a breathtaking view of Pest. These baths were far less crowded, and much cheaper. Just make sure you remember to bring your flip flops and a towel!

The coldest baths were definitely a shock to the senses, and I have to admit I didn’t spend much time in them!

After a relaxing day, we headed to Retek Bisztro, a restaurant offering delicious Hungarian food. While it was quite expensive, I would say the food here was worth it. Our final stop was a unique aspect of the city: their ruin bars. These neglected pre-war buildings of the Old Jewish Quarter have become popular places to go for a night out. We went to Szimpla Kert, one of the most iconic ruin bars, and spent the evening drinking Froccs. While this drink is only white wine and sparkling water, it somehow tasted far better in Budapest than it does in the UK. The next morning we said goodbye to Budapest, already excited for our next visit.  


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